While I was touring Split with an American family the other day, we were usual picture for everyone who was watching. My guests were holding just bought bottles with water, while I was doing what anyone in Split is always doing - seeking for refreshment on some of the many public fountains scattered around this city. Really, why would anyone reasonable buy bottled water in a city which gets its drinking water from a source which is so reliable that ancient Romans used it? My apologies to all ... More

As modest as they are, Splićani (we already learn, but here it is again: people living in or originating from Split) truly believe that this city is the centre of the world. How about going a one step forward, and determine where the centre of Split is? In terms of every day's life, there is the Diocletian's Palace as the urban core of Split, there is Pjaca (Narodni trg) as the centuries-old centre of all social life, and there is Riva as a sort of the city's living room. Choosing one of them ... More

It just can't be a coincidence. First, the other day I met a young family from India. Father of the family told me something that is hard to expect from someone who is coming from a country which looks like a nightmare for any driver who was not born there with a car wheel in his hands. "How do you park here in Split? All this looks like a complete chaos to me." Only two days after that, I ran onto an article by some American blogger. Its writer doesn't seem to have a clear picture of ... More

I have a friend, Italian living in Split who passionately loves picigin. There are many things he did in his life which can make him a genuine Splićanin (locally for a person who lives or originates in Split), but very few of those things can measure with a fact that he has his own picigin ball. You should know what picigin if arriving to Split is, it's probably the only beach fun protected by law as a part of cultural heritage. Some are annoyed for such attention, some will hate that cameras ... More

For more than 20 years a week when Split celebrates Saint Domnio (or Domnius), its patron saint, starts with the raising of Croatian flag on top of the cathedral's bell tower. Same happened this year, two, on a day when I'm writing this blog, and once again Split climber Ivica Matković was the one who had the honour to do it. Only, this time he did it with a cast on his broken arm. This small detail says it all about affection Split and Splićani (local name for citizens of Split) feels about ... More

No matter how good I know my hometown Split, there are always details that still wait to be discovered. That's why one of my favourite hobbies is just to browse and look around, whenever I can. Sometimes, results are just beautiful, as expected in a city with so many historical layers as Split has. Among such discoveries, a special place is reserved for old inscriptions on buildings and walls. On several spots around the Diocletian's Palace carved signatures or signs can be found, some kind of ... More

One of the titles Split proudly bears in the last few years is being a new gastronomy capital of Croatia. There is a huge group of new - and some old - restaurants which brought "a little something" to diverse city from the usual offer in Dalmatia. A string is getting longer every day: Bokeria, Oyster&Sushi Bota, Brasserie on 7, Chops, Dvor, Kadena, Konoba Jozo, Konoba Matejuška, Ma:Toni, Mazzgoon, NoStress, Paradigma, Re di mare, Uje, Villa Spiza, Zinfandel, etc. We could ... More

Coffee drinking in Split is so much more than just a consuming hot beverage. It has nothing to do with western-type grabbing one of those big mugs with coffee-to-go on the way to a meeting, work or wherever you can go in a rush. Surprisingly, in spite of centuries of close contacts, it also has a little to do with Italian-style espresso shots. Here, on eastern Adriatic shores it's a way to drink rakija, not coffee. Here, this custom is much closer to its variations in the eastern Mediterranean. ... More

History of Split is marked by Diocletian and his Palace, but centuries brought so much more. After all, history of some place is not only a tale about big events, or architectural endeavours, but maybe even more about its daily life. For example, one of my favourite stories from the Split past is the one about Vid Morpurgo and his bookstore, still standing at central square, Narodni trg or simply Pjaca (Piazza). Number inscribed on top of green wooden door says it all. This bookstore was ... More

Diocletian built a palace which was a foundation of Split, Saint Domnio protects city for ages, its history goes from ancient Greeks to modern days, Marjan and sea hold it almost in the big hug. There is also a spirit, for every "Splićanin" (person from Split, pron. "spleechahneen") unique and incomparable with anything in the world. And then there is something which is almost like a separate Split religion. Its name is Hajduk FC. Isn't it an irony that - with all those ... More