Ivica Profaca

Ivica Profaca is a journalist with decades of experience, and strong connection with Split, city where he was born, and where and with which he still lives. With this series of blogs he shows Split as he see it, and as he would like you to see it. Contact writer via: iprofaca@gmail.com
  • Weather Powered City

    Split is a climate-powered city. Same is with its citizens. It's enough that clouds and rain cover city's sky, and the very third day a flow of people fills every available open space, with the single conversation topic: "Finally, we barely survived". If, by any chance, sun disappeared for some longer period of time, outcome on Split streets is hard to predict. No long enjoying over coffee at Riva, no picigin at Bačvice beach, and no sunglasses covering faces. The only comfort would ... More

  • Feel and Taste Split

    Small things make a city. They make it unique, and make its citizens love it. It's a reason good enough to make visitors discover all those things which will allow them to love some place in a way those who live there love it. Split has Diocletian's Palace, it has Marjan, beautiful sea and coast, it has history. Thus, people who live at the spot so strongly filled with heritage become part of the same heritage, and heritage becomes part of your everyday life. But there is more. If there ... More

  • In Search Of Soul of Split

    Some would say that there wouldn't be Split, if there wasn't Diocletian. However, would there be a Diocletian's Palace if there wasn't scenery that attracted retired Roman emperor to build his Palace here? Sometimes a hill, valley, river or other similar point can be so much more than just a geographical fact. Marjan is exactly such a case. After all, one of the most common descriptions of Split is "a city under Marjan". No matter which direction the one is coming from, this small - ... More

  • Release Brakes, It's Carnival!

    It's a Carnival time! Go out to streets, alleys and squares, put your mask on face and act crazy for that one day! And have fun, of course. This Saturday, as we know, a 10-days Carnival fest in Split begins. It's a continuity of tradition that is inseparable part of Split identity for centuries. When Carnival flag got raised on a city pole at the main square, all the brakes will be gone, and Split will prove how much it love insanities of all kind. Of course, we are thinking on those benign ... More

  • Hajduk, More Than Sport

    Diocletian built a palace which was a foundation of Split, Saint Domnio protects city for ages, its history goes from ancient Greeks to modern days, Marjan and sea hold it almost in the big hug. There is also a spirit, for every "Splićanin" (person from Split, pron. "spleechahneen") unique and incomparable with anything in the world. And then there is something which is almost like a separate Split religion. Its name is Hajduk FC. Isn't it an irony that - with all those ... More

  • More Than a Palace: Story About Morpurgo

    History of Split is marked by Diocletian and his Palace, but centuries brought so much more. After all, history of some place is not only a tale about big events, or architectural endeavours, but maybe even more about its daily life. For example, one of my favourite stories from the Split past is the one about Vid Morpurgo and his bookstore, still standing at central square, Narodni trg or simply Pjaca (Piazza). Number inscribed on top of green wooden door says it all. This bookstore was ... More

  • Let's Have a Coffee!

    Coffee drinking in Split is so much more than just a consuming hot beverage. It has nothing to do with western-type grabbing one of those big mugs with coffee-to-go on the way to a meeting, work or wherever you can go in a rush. Surprisingly, in spite of centuries of close contacts, it also has a little to do with Italian-style espresso shots. Here, on eastern Adriatic shores it's a way to drink rakija, not coffee. Here, this custom is much closer to its variations in the eastern Mediterranean. ... More

  • Bizarre? No, A Dream Food

    One of the titles Split proudly bears in the last few years is being a new gastronomy capital of Croatia. There is a huge group of new - and some old - restaurants which brought "a little something" to diverse city from the usual offer in Dalmatia. A string is getting longer every day: Bokeria, Oyster&Sushi Bota, Brasserie on 7, Chops, Dvor, Kadena, Konoba Jozo, Konoba Matejuška, Ma:Toni, Mazzgoon, NoStress, Paradigma, Re di mare, Uje, Villa Spiza, Zinfandel, etc. We could ... More

  • Spiritual Graffiti

    No matter how good I know my hometown Split, there are always details that still wait to be discovered. That's why one of my favourite hobbies is just to browse and look around, whenever I can. Sometimes, results are just beautiful, as expected in a city with so many historical layers as Split has. Among such discoveries, a special place is reserved for old inscriptions on buildings and walls. On several spots around the Diocletian's Palace carved signatures or signs can be found, some kind of ... More

  • May Sudamja Be Good For You!

    For more than 20 years a week when Split celebrates Saint Domnio (or Domnius), its patron saint, starts with the raising of Croatian flag on top of the cathedral's bell tower. Same happened this year, two, on a day when I'm writing this blog, and once again Split climber Ivica Matković was the one who had the honour to do it. Only, this time he did it with a cast on his broken arm. This small detail says it all about affection Split and Splićani (local name for citizens of Split) feels about ... More