Holidays season is approaching, this part of a year is special everywhere in Christian world, and it's also special in Split and Dalmatia. Recently, it's marked with events like Advent in Split which starts this weekend when the first advent candle will be lit at Riva. However, there are so many beautiful, sometimes ancient holiday traditions. Let's try to put up a top 5 list, as a guide to enjoy Christmas season as a local.

1 Afternoon Midnight Mass

It sounds like an oximoron, but anything is possible in Split. And it's like that for centuries. In the old days, Splićani (we learned what is it, didn't we? Anyone living in or originated from Split) made pilgrimages to Marjan hill, that's why there are so many little churches scattered around. One of them is Our Lady of Bethlehem, built in 15th century overlooking southern slopes of this beloved forest park. Every December 24, this tiny temple is the site of unique midnight mass celebrated at 4 pm. Explanation is simple; in the old times people were coming there to celebrate this mass, and this was the only way they could have returned back home for Christmas night, and another mass in some of the old town churches. However, tradition on Marjan survived through centuries, and you should believe one not-so-religious person when says that it's really special to join others in serene night among cypresses and pines.

2 Fasting with cod fish

Split lies on Adriatic sea shores, and if there is anything we have plenty than it's fish. However, there is one special species of fish that lives thousands of miles away and yet it's one of the main culinary treats during the holiday season. Moreover, it became main ingredient of pre-Christmas fasting. It's cod fish. How, and why this fish imported from northern Europe became so important in Dalmatia (and elsewhere in the Mediterranean), we can only guess from different stories, one of them was published in this blog. After all these centuries of codfish fasting feasts, it doesn't really matter. What does matter is that you can eat it anywhere in these days, and whole town smells like being dipped in a giant dish filled with this treat. Of course, you can eat it in other parts of the year, but that's simply not that. There are many ways to cook it, but people in Split usually stick to two, brodetto and white cod (locally "bakalar na bijelo"). With a glass of wine, you will want fasting days to last forever. On December 24 there is even a public giveaway of cod fish, usually at Prokurative square, mostly for people in need.

3 Fritule

People in Dalmatia are simple, and most of its culinary traditions are like that. If you want to make your life sweeter than it really is, than don't miss one of the most delicious customs - fritule. They are small balls made of dough, usually with raisins inside, and fried. Nowadays it's possible to get fritule wherever and whenever you want, but having them fresh and warm on Christmas eve is something special. There are zillions recipes, every local who likes cooking believes she or he makes the best fritule in the world. Don't believe them, because it's been well known that those my grandmother used to prepare are above all.

4 Presents galore

Whole December is a month of giving, and even nowadays it turned into a commercial craze there are traditions which makes you feel really festive, instead of being just a shopping machine. We all know about Christmas gifts, but in Split (and most of Dalmatia) all begins with Saint Nicholas, on December 6. After writing a letter to Saint Nicholas, in some parts of Croatia kids leave their boots to be filled. Weather in Split probably didn't require families to buy boots to their children, so gifts sometimes land on a nightstand, waiting for kids to wake up. Gifts are usually modest, maybe some sweets or simple toy. Same goes with Saint Lucia, on December 13. Children leave their socks hanging on a window, and next morning rushing there to see what kind of treat they got. You can observe these two holidays in interesting churches, too. In Veli Varoš stands one of the most beautiful churches in Split, Saint Mikula (local name for Nicholas). Saint Lucia is celebrated in her chappel beneath the cathedral, in a space which once was Diocletian's mausoleum krypt. Leave your praying message there, and wash your face with a water from the well inside the krypt, because Lucia is also protecting human sight.

5. Christmas Day picigin

Unlike those mentioned above, this tradition is fairly new, but it's fun. Picigin is a beach game invented in Split, and the best place to play it is Bačvice beach. OK, what beach time has to do with holidays season? Well, those guys (and few girls) fanatically dedicated to picigin are trying to seize any moment to play it, in spite of weather and calendar. One of these days is definitely Christmas. So, drop at Bačvice beach on December 25 (and again on January 1), and watch them playing in the freezing sea. If you are brave enough, join them. Otherwise, put on a warm jacket, sip a drink and enjoy.